Valentino Garavani

I finally watched Valentino: The Last Emperor (2008) yesterday evening. I wasn't convinced that I was going to like it, but in fact I absolutely loved it. As amusing as Valentino's extravagances and excesses were (at his immaculate chateau near Paris, an assistant was employed to spray paint any brown patches on the manicured lawn green, while his collection of pug dogs travelled by private jet and had their teeth brushed by another assistant in the film!), the most interesting aspect of the film was how it explored both the business and creative sides of the Valentino business. The film provided a fascinating look at the relationship between Valentino and his long-term partner and business manager, Giancarlo Giammetti (the arrangement is similar to that which existed between Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé), as well as at some of the business happenings. Valentino is a large fashion house, of the old school type, with all sorts of operations, and the constant tension between Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti, and the majority owner of the business provided an interesting sub story. Towards the end of the film, the Valentino group was subject to a hostile takeover, and, shortly after filming, Valentino retired, leaving his namesake company for good after 45 years at the helm.

The aspect of the film which I found most gripping, though, was that which focused on the design and production. Seeing Valentino (who is a true fashion master) at work was extraordinary, as was seeing his army of seamstresses in Rome, whose technical skill and attention to detail was mind-blowing. Witnessing some of Valentino's wondrous designs being hand made to the very highest quality (thousands and thousands of individual sequins were sewn on to one dress by hand, for example) really reminded me what I love about fashion. There was a real beauty to the production process itself, as well as to the finished results.

In the film, Valentino is preparing for his 45th anniversary exhibition in Rome. Sadly I did not make it to Rome to see the exhibition, but I do have the exhibition catalogue thanks to my father who was in Rome at the time. The images below are all from the catalogue, and they showcase some of the highlights of Valentino's 45 year fashion career. The unremitting elegance and beauty of his designs is extraordinary; many are utterly timeless in their style, and you hardly need to know anything about fashion or style to appreciate how stunning they are. You also get a sense of the incredible craftsmanship, and of all the effort put into each piece by Valentino's seamstresses.

(Click all images to enlarge)

Valentino in Rome with some of his team: