Aside from Christopher Kane's resort debut, the other resort '10 collection everyone's been talking about is Celine, because it's the first collection to have been created by Phoebe Philo since she quit fashion to be with her young children in 2006. Philo was formerly designer for Chloé, and her easy-to-wear, feminine vision for the brand was hugely popular and was much missed when she left; indeed, Chloé is yet to recover fully from losing Philo, while the brand now benefiting from her design is Celine.
It won't be until October, when the spring/summer 2010 collection is shown, when we'll see the first full collection by Philo since her return, but if this 'taster' resort collection is anything to go by, we won't be disappointed. For the most part, everything was incredibly chic in a very understated, soft way. The colour pallet (neutral khakis, army greens, and camel browns, with jolts of electric blues, dusty pinks and some very sharp monochrome moments) sounds awkward on paper, but in reality it works really well, contributing to a strong overall aesthetic which we really like. Cut is spot-on, there's great tailoring, the fabrics look good, the aesthetic is strong. In short, we're very impressed, and this feels like it could be the start of something big again...
2) Yves Saint Laurent
A strong collection overall; we weren't sold on the harem pants which reached new lows quite literally, or the extra-voluminous trousers (not pictured), but there were some moments of real elegance which referenced YSL of the past, like the sharply cut white trouser suit and the puff-shouldered green dress. Overall, we felt the collection did a good job of balancing commercial sell-ability and the high fashion look, a balancing act which resort collections must undertake.
4) Burberry Prorsum
5) Helmut Lang
6) Miu Miu
Despite being merely a resort collection, the rather idiosyncratic and slightly subversive beauty, that has come to characterise Miu Miu over the last few years under Miuccia Prada's masterful guidance, still shone through: witness the expertly cut figure-skater dress with almost invisible nude straps, or the pretty print swimsuit with the surplus black straps, creating a 'bondage' effect, or the airy print dresses worn with boxing boots. There's something quite studied and 'intellectual' about Miu Miu's creative look, but at the same time there's always quite an effortless-looking chic, here brought out by the swinging skirts and strong prints.
7) Marc Jacobs
8) Calvin Klein
This collection may not have been the most exciting of Calvin Klein moments, but we did find the dresses that were constructed by layering up sheer fabrics interesting, as they had a very light, airy feel that at the same time felt slightly subversive (we just love the s-word..) and quite unusual.
9) Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney showed an extensive, 56 look resort collection, from which our favourite outfits were probably the very sharp monochrome ones from near the start, although everything throughout was very pretty (having Anouck Lepère model it didn't hurt..) and it all felt 'very Stella' with the range of strong tailoring, relaxed 'sporty chic' ensembles, breezy prints, soft knitwear, and more glam evening options. A collection where the more we look, the more we like it.
Rising London star Erdem Moralioglu showed a small resort collection, which showed off his strength in making floral print clothes that seem very contemporary and relevant.
Karl Lagerfeld showed the Chanel cruise collection to much fanfare in Venice a few weeks ago. We weren't there (boo!), and even if we had something to say about the setting, we're sure you've already read enough about it, so we'll focus solely on the clothes. Lagerfeld is so adept at updating Chanel a little each season and keeping it feeling fresh, while at the same time staying true to the brand's original core look, there isn't much to say except, he's done it again! (and treated a lot of lucky fashion editors an amazing trip to Venice in the process.. what credit crunch?). Actually, this wasn't one of our favourite Chanel collections: the setting did look spectacular, but something about the collection didn't quite gel for us, and although we could pick out some very elegant outfits, overall it just didn't excite us that much.
Stay tuned for more resort collections, including Lanvin, Givenchy and Balenciaga.