Nicolas Ghesquière showed a strong and interesting resort 2010 collection at Balenciaga. We enjoyed the prints, the variations in cut and volume, the fit, the shoes.. it all felt very Balenciaga and very Ghesquière, and there was a lot of experimentation for a resort collection. The unforgiving shorts, in a sort of peachy satin, were the only false step in this otherwise aesthetically pleasing and well cut collection.
We may not be the world's biggest fans of Riccardo Tisci's work at Givenchy, but he pulled together a very sound resort collection which checked lots of the right boxes for us... there were plenty of chic and elegant options (he even managed to make a difficult shade of radioactive green work), well cut and well draped, and a refreshing minimalism (even when the busy prints featured) pervaded. Tisci also took the opportunity to launch a slightly lower-priced capsule 'Redux' collection of key Tiscci/Givenchy pieces (see top images), namely various simple and chic white and black studded options.
The Versace resort 2010 collection felt very fresh and summery: we liked the stylish prints, which were bright and classy, and the sharp tailoring was very chic. The new, slightly pared-down direction Versace has been taking lately still seems to be working well.
4) Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta showed a huge, 53 look resort collection with no restraints placed on the full-on glamour and elegance. There was a strong Parisian theme, indeed some outfits were very Chanel-esque, but at the same time it all felt charactersically 'de la Renta,' from the beautifully draped evening gowns, to the highly chic beach and daywear options. Everything was rich and oppulent, but never overtly so; in a word, (very) classy.
Alber Elbaz's resort 2010 collection for Lanvin had that characteristic Elbaz/Lanvin elegance and luxuriousness to it, with plenty of strong day and evening options. A bright, Mexican inspired theme added a fun, summery edge to proceedings, but everything was still very much rooted in Lanvin's typically chic Parisian look.
6) Christian Dior
The 40s/50s glamour was on full blast at John Galliano's resort 2010 collection for Christian Dior, to the extent that at times it almost felt like certain outfits were film or tv costumes for the period. That is not to belittle the elegance of it, or the masterful construction (you expect no less from Galliano), it's just we felt just a few more contemporary touches wouldn't have gone amiss.
7) Zac Posen
Zac Posen showed a collection that was both fun and stylish, with the recurring giant bow motif adding a sense of drama and playfulness to glamourous evening wear and smart day outfits. The prints (not pictured) and the acid brights added real energy to a collection which overall felt modern and fresh.
Frida Gianni showed a very glamorous resort collection for Gucci, characterised by that sort of very Italian, very Gucci, jet-set look. There was razor-sharp tailoring and glam summery prints (not pictured), with the colours consisting of subtle neutrals, bright whites, blacks and injections of blue (we particularly liked the deep midnight blue Gianni used to good effect, and the odd shot of electric blue). It can be quite a harsh look, but we rather like it within the context of glamorous clothes for the (nouveau) riche and sexy, and Gianni seems to know exactly how to please the Gucci customer which is no bad thing.
9) Donna Karan
We really enjoyed Donna Karan's resort 2010 collection, which was fresh, summery, and chic. Almost everything was very elegant, and there was skilful cut and draping going on, while at the same time it felt, if not cutting edge, modern and relevant, and full of stylish options.
10) Anna Sui
It was the bright prints contrasted against grungy, heavy black boots that really caught our attention at Anna Sui. It may not be the newest of ideas these days, but we thought Sui executed it very well, and overall produced an enjoyable and pretty edgy collection, with plenty of good options.
11) Giambattista Valli
As ever, sophisticated elegance was the name of the game at Giambattista Valli, and for resort 2010 he didn't disappoint, showing a range of meticulously elegant and restrained day and evening outfits, including beautiful cocktail dresses and sharply tailored suits. Overall a very chic and classy affair.
12) Louis Vuitton
Marc Jacobs showed off some strong options in the Louis Vuitton resort 2010 collection, complemeted by stylish prints, good cut and sort of updated St. Tropez vibe... jury's still very much out on those boots though..
Click HERE for Resort Report Part 1, which includes Yves Saint Laurent and Prada.