Tuesday, 28 October 2008


Although we adore Gareth Pugh’s designs, we’ve got an issue with his product distribution. Hapsical recently decided that what we really wanted was something (preferably a jacket) by Pugh, with this season’s rubber triangles on - rather like the one he's wearing himself in this picture from Jak & Jil:

Dilemma: Pugh’s designs are hardly produced and sold commercially, and the stuff that you can buy from the shops is pretty dull compared to his runway creations. Obviously his most extreme pieces couldn’t be manufactured commercially, but there is a happy medium. Anyway, always hanging above Gareth Pugh is the discussion about whether he can ever be a commercially viable designer with his own brand: his studio apparently has no heating because cash is so limited, and he produces his incredible outfits on very tight budgets. Now we’re not business experts, but surely selling people what they want to buy (i.e. his designs – which get so widely praised and admired, quite rightly) would be a good place to start?

The range at Browns - good stuff, but not as exciting as we'd like.

We would even go so far as to say that people are going to lose interest in Gareth Pugh if they can’t get their hands on stuff by him which at least slightly resembles what he presents on the runway: the period where the non-availability of his designs leads to greater intrigue and desirability is fading a little. We were reading an interview with a hot new London designer called Emma Bell recently, and she says “I think it’s incredibly important to always maintain an awareness of commercial value... if people want to be able to get slinky in your stuff they have to be able to get their hands on the goods or it becomes frustrating,” and frankly we agree. Pugh’s other Brit desginer contemporaries have got the commercial side of things sorted (Henry Holland’s t-shirts were partly so successful because they were covetable, yet readily available and affordable; Giles Deacon reaches out to people through his Mulberry and New Look collaborations and his own Giles line is available; Christopher Kane runway outfits can be purchased, and he did Topshop too..) so why can’t Gareth Pugh get it sorted too?

In the meantime, we feel a DIY project coming on… how hard can it be to attach lots of rubber triangles to a skinny black jacket?

Those who managed to cop the rubber-square stuff:

Top: Grace Jones, Observer Music Monthly magazine. Bottom: Daphne Guinness, Evening Standard Magazine. Bah!

\Rant over. (it's mighty tempting here to end "That's All," but I think there is only so much Devil Wears Prada quotation blog readers can bear..)

1 comment:

  1. A familiar frustration for consumers trying to support much-feted nu-Brit designers currently riding their star ascendant.
    The limitations may also be due to Olmar & Mirta, the company responsible for manufacturing Pugh's collection (as well as Rick Owens).
    I saw a good selection of these jackets in DSM yesterday.
    But a tube of UHU glue and some vinyl sheets may be more fun, after all.